Museo del Carmen Alto and Casa del Alabado, Quito

Have you ever spent so much time in one city that you’ve finished running down your “must-see” list, “very-keen-to-see” list, and started on the “sounds-interesting-if-I’ve-got-nothing-better-to-do” list?

That’s me in Quito. If you’re a regular reader, you’ll know that I’ve spent lots of time there during my stay in Ecuador. I have a go-to hotel (La Posada Colonial) and go-to place for the best empanadas in town (conveniently located near La Posada Colonial!), which is pretty much all you need in a city… or is it just me?

Church of Santo Domingo

We had 2 days in Quito between Otavalo to the north and the Quilotoa Loop further south, so having exhausted my first 2 lists I started on the third.

Museo del Carmen Alto

I’ll be honest. I was primarily interested in visiting this because it’s right across the road from the empanadas restaurant, and I’d therefore walked past it a million times without venturing in.

This museum is part of a centuries-old Carmelite monstery, which to this day is still in operation. Nuns live in a walled-off part of the complex inaccessible to the public, and the museum itself is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

The museum is filled with religious art and there are many exhibits on the spread of the Carmelites through South America and the life of Saint Mariana de Jesús, a nun who lived here. She became the first Ecuadorean to be canonised and the patron saint of Ecuador.  She has also been declared by the government as a national heroine. According to legend, she sacrificed herself to save Quito from epidemics and earthquakes and shortly after her death, a white lily sprang up from her blood. This miracle earned her the nickname la Azucena de Quito or the lily of Quito.

The lily

For some reason, admission was half-off that day so we only paid $3 for both of us. It’s a good thing because the museum was slightly disappointing for me.

I was interested in catching a glimpse into the daily lives of these cloistered nuns, and we did get to see their old kitchen and dining room, which is no longer in use. The dining room tables are laid with food they would’ve eaten and you get a good idea of what their mealtimes were like.

But I would have liked more insight into their lives. What’s it like being so shut-off from the outside world, without any worldly distractions to occupy your mind? Is it boring? Peaceful? Mindful living?

Maybe one day I’ll find answers, but not from here.

Website: http://www.museocarmenalto.gob.ec/

How to get there: Garcia Moreno S1-47 near the junction with Rocafuerte, across the road from Museo de la Ciudad (a top-notch museum).

Opening hours: 9.30am – 5.30pm, Wednesday to Sunday

Admission: $3 (standard) / $2 (student) / $1 (child)

Tips: All signs are in Spanish but there were various guides stationed throughout who spoke English, so don’t worry if you don’t speak Spanish!

Casa del Alabado

Head over here if you’re interested in ancient history and culture! This museum houses an impressive collection of pre-Columbian artifacts and art, giving you an interesting insight into the indigenous cultures which existed in Ecuador prior to the arrival of the Spaniards.

The artifacts are arranged according to theme, like worldview, shamans, and music. Audio guides in English are available, which was a nice touch. The tracks start and end with pieces of music that last as long as 20 seconds (or at least they felt like it!), so a little patience is required! Some tracks are music only, which made me feel a little bit cheated. Imagine traditional music playing for 20 seconds, and when you think “finally, the narration!” – the track just ends.

These two connected vessels caught my eye because they reminded me of some pottery that my host family dug up back in Intag. It was a lot less ornate, but also in the form of connected vessels. It was fascinating to think that maybe the pottery they found is from pre-Columbian times!

I also love seeing the similarities in ancient cultures halfway across the world from each other – e.g. similar to Taoist belief, they practised ancestor worship. With so much to divide us in today’s world, I firmly believe that we should hold on to what we have in common, to remind us of our common humanity.

Shaman

We all probably know that shamans function as healers and/or religious leaders in their community, but did you know that in certain cultures, snakes were their “spirit animals”? That’s why this depiction of a shaman includes a hat made of snakes. It’s an interesting contrast to the largely negative view of snakes we have today (call someone a snake and see if they like it!).

Website: http://www.alabado.org

How to get there: Cuenca N1-41, between Bolivar and Rocafuerte

Opening hours: 9am – 5.30pm every day except Wednesdays, 1.30pm – 5.30pm on Wednesdays. Last entry at 5pm in all cases. Closed from 24 December to 1 January.

Admission: $4 (standard) / $1 (senior citizens and children) / $1.50 (university students)

Tips: Allow at least 1 hour to explore the museum. This museum was well-worth the admission fee!

República del Cacao: Gift-hunting and coffee breaks for chocolate lovers

Did you know that Ecuador produces some of the best chocolate in the world?

Some award-winning Ecuadorean brands include Pacari and República del Cacao. They are produced from Latin American ingredients and are the perfect gift for your chocolate-loving friends.

I haven’t tried Pacari, but I’ve tried some República del Cacao chocolate and it’s pretty good. It’s obviously geared towards tourists (all the labels are in English) though, and it’s quite pricey by Ecuadorean standards. I guess it’s a little like Colombian coffee – world-famous, but the best is exported.

The best thing about this particular República del Cacao outlet is that it’s located in the centre of the Old City. So if your feet need a break after hours of walking or you’re just hungry – you can simply pop in for some chocolate cakes and coffee. Or better yet, hot chocolate!

How to get there: Venezuela N5-44, between Chile and Mejia

Have you ever visited a museum or other sight that was quite low on your priority list and been pleasantly surprised? Let me know in the comments!

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